| Some Choices |
What kind of scope to get for the first time buyer or builder is a tough choice sometimes. The very first thing to do when you have decided to build or buy is to know what to expect to do with it. If you are going to just gaze then the choices are simpler. If the choices are for other reasons, then you'll need to shop a little bit and do some research into telescopes. Not every scope is the same, obviously. Some folks like them as simple as possible and others want the works. There is a lot involved in the long run when you get a telescope. There are eyepieces and filters and optical accessories you may consider down the road. If you are buying for a child who has expressed an interest in Astronomy, you may just want to buy the bare bones, just in case the interest fades after awhile. Here are a few of my recommendations that I believe are good basics in telescopes in general. |
| The Basics of Basics |
The small 60mm (2.4") refractors are inexpensive and easy to find at just about anywhere. Unfortunately these are the scopes that are considered inferior for anything more than the moon and a few planets. The large department stores that boast great magnification and all that advertising crap, is just that...crap. Stay away from these if you can. I have had way too many experiences of people telling me what a disappointment it was to purchase these kind of scopes. Of course there are good ones. Meade, Celestron, Orion have quality or above refractor 60mm scopes. The price of course will be a little higher than department store scopes, but you get what you pay for, right? If you do purchase one of the name brand scopes, consider a few pointers here. Get a scope that will except 1.25" eyepieces and has a solid mount. The standard size eyepieces of a 60mm is .965" barrel size. They are too small and virtually useless for any long range viewing. With a 1.25" adapter your field of view is wider and has better eye relief. The tripods on most 60mm scopes are made of wood. Therefore a little wobbly when using the scope because of poor construction. The better ones that are sold; they tend to be a little more stable. Wooden legs that are built correctly tend to be more desirable than aluminum. Of course you have a choice of Alt-Azimuth mount or a equatorial one. Those choices will be explained later. I must also mention that many of these small scopes from department stores come with ridiculous optical accessories like a 3x barlow and 4mm MA type eyepiece. On a 60mm, they are totally worthless and anyone attempting to use them will be greatly disappointed and above all frustrated. This is considered a Astronomy Hobby "killer". The bottom line about using and buying 60mm anything is that don't expect a whole lot. With a 2.4" aperture the limits are great. The newer "goto" systems only point in the right direction, not necessarily show you the object. This is another potential "hobby Killer". So beware! |
| Good beginner telescopes |
Some of the telescopes larger than 60mm, are very good starter scopes. There are refractors that are 90mm or larger that are great for beginners. Then there are the reflectors that will make a good starter too. The 80mm to 90mm refractors are excellent for viewing and using for astrophotography in the long run. Also 4.5 and 6" reflectors are good as well. The larger aperture refractors are a little more pricey for their size. They can goes as high as $3500! If that is the case then you may want to consider a Dobsonian type reflector. These are relatively cheap for their sizes and most are larger than 4.5". The most recommended scope by most experts is the 6" f/8 reflector ("f" stands for focal length). They are the best overall scope for any beginner. Most of them come in a Dobsonian design. There are a few 6" that are equatorial. In other words they are on a tripod mount. Another good starter scope is a short focal refractor like the 80mm or 90mm short tubes. They are small enough to pack away on trips and can be used either on a EQ mount or even a camera tripod. If you do decide to buy a scope mentioned above you can add other accessories later once you come to understand what they do. I always advise to at least get a standard if not better quality scope the first time around; only because alot of people depend on that first impression. Though 60mm's do work to a point, most people who expected more won't get it. This too is another "hobby" killer. Always ask around, and if possible look through some scopes at a star party. Joining a society or club is highly recommended. Tons of info there. Can't hurt. Only help
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4.5" Refractor on a Polar axis equatorial mount.
Refractor diagram
Orions' SkyQuest 6" & 8" Dobsonians. Good price for their
sizes.
| Intermediate Telescopes |
| Perhaps you already own a smaller scope and want to upgrade to something more than fundamental. There are a few choices that fit in this category. If you do not want a Dobsonian and may be interested in object tracking or astrophotography you may consider a few options. 1. An equatorial mounted scope. 2. SCT (Schmidt/Cassigrain Telescope). These scopes are primarily used for deep sky observing and photography. The equatorials are a tripod mount that may or (may not) have a polar alignment scope or apparatus. Once aligned to the celestial north pole, the scope will follow the sky movement either by hand or motor device. The SCT's have two different kinds of mounts. One is the regular polar axis equatorial and the other is the fork mount. The fork mount is usually reserved for the larger and much heavier scopes, and attach to both sides of the telescope, and below with it sits on a polar axis mount. Also in this category are the medium size refractors like the 90mm (3.5") to 150mm (6"). One of the most common refractors are the longer focal 4" (101mm). These type scopes are great for intermediate use. However always remember that these scopes can be big. Example my 4" (101mm) f/15 refractor with focuser fully extended is over 6' long! That kind of scope belongs on a pier. |
(SCT) Schmidt-Cassigrain with a forked moutn.
Internal Diagram of a SCT.
Newtonian Reflector on a Polar Axis Equatorial mount.
| Other telescopes to consider |
| Like I said, there are other telescopes to choose from. Some people opt for power. I mean the big ones. Some of them are large aperture refractors and others are large Dob type scopes. The other kind of designs are the truss tube scopes. They are Newtonian in nature, but are designed to handle large diameter mirrors. |
Truss tube 13" Dobsonian (Newtonian)
These scopes can be enormous and very expensive. Their nickname is commonly known as a "light-bucket". They range from 10" to as high as 42"! They must be broken down to transport and some of them require a ladder to see into the eyepiece. You can build your own if you prefer or have one made. The waiting list for some of these scopes are long because of the time it takes to build them. I very much suggest you wait a awhile to consider these monster scopes. Only the "hardcore" dedicated use these. I wouldn't mind having one myself except I have no more muscles to move them.
| Mounts |
There are two kinds of mounts. Alt-Azimuth & Equatorial. The Alt-Azimuth is the simpler mount because they have only 2 axis. Up & down and left & right. They are popular with Dobsonian type scopes and a few of the cheaper refractors. Some of them are designed to be rigged with a motorized tracker. But the majority have to be guided by hand. The equatorial uses a polar axis with RA and Dec axis. You can align the polar axis with the north star and follow the sky with a motor or by hand. These mounts should be very stable and of good quality. Some EQ mounts are very expensive. They are required if you are into astrophotography or CCD Imaging. I should also mention Equatorial platforms. They were designed for Dobsonians. They sit on a platform that moves the entire scope following the sky. They aren't that common and only a few people use them, so they aren't considered standard, just an option. There is another type mount that has been growing popularity and that is the pier mount. Basically it is a stand with a long adjustable pole with either long spread out legs or plainly bolted to the ground surface. This makes the scope and EQ mount extremely rigid. These are basically incorporated at home our private observatories. Orion and a few other places sell pier mounts for several type EQ mountings. |
| Binoculars |
For the real beginner who wants to study the sky before a telescope purchase, binoculars are a good investment. With a pair that has decent optics, you can see many deep sky objects. I use a pair of 10x50 that brings out star clusters and some nebulas quite well. Orion has a very good selection of binoculars that are at reasonable prices. It is always best to get a star chart and study the sky at much as possible. Learn what the objects are and identify the constellations. This well help you in the hunt for what is up there. I always recommend SKY ATLAS 2000. This large laminated star chart is desirable because of its' size and attention to detail to stars up to magnitude 8.5. There are several versions of this chart. My preference is the black star on white background laminated. They cost between $70 to $125. It's worth the cost and they'll last "forever". |
| My recommandations |
AGES 7-11: For young people I suggest you try a quality 60mm (2.4") refractor. Orion, Meade, Celestron would be the only scopes I would consider. However I have been leaning toward not suggesting that anymore only because of the extreme limitations. A 4.5" Reflector is also a scope to consider as is a 80mm or 90mm short tube refractor. I say this because many times a child will lose interest in Astronomy and why go deep into a wallet for a passing fad. Binoculars are another option to consider. AGES: 12-18: This age group that continues to pursue astronomy or just getting into it, your choices are broader. My first recommendation is a 6" F/8 Dobsonian or Equartorial. They are priced reasonably well. Some of the larger scopes will do like a 8" or even 10". The smaller SCT (Cassagrain) like the Meade 8" (LX10) or Celestrons' G-8 SCT. Some larger refractors like a 90mm or 127mm will be adequate enough also. But remember, they are more expensive than Dobsonian type scopes. ADULTS (New to Astronomy): If you want to really see things and learn the sky, get at least an 8" size aperture. The average size that most older adults get are 8". Most of my astro-buddies have a selection between 8" to 12.5". This is OK. Refractors of 4" or larger are also recommended, especially for astrophotography or CCD imaging. But they cost. INTERMEDIATE TO PRO: Well basically here, you can get anything you want. If you know scopes good enough and the gizmos that go with them. Here is where folks get large refractors or reflectors. The large truss tube design scopes are used greatly, so are the Large SCT's. Most of the experienced gazers that I know use 10-14" SCT or 14-22" Truss Tube Dobsonian. I hope you have a job, because these scopes are very expensive. Some of the other type refractors such as the ED & Apochromatic scopes fall in this range. These scopes are considered premium as is the cost. The larger SCT scopes like 10" or bigger are massive, so consider your back or setup time involved. |
| Just a Note |
If you have decided or already bought a telescope, here are a few facts you need to know. Sometimes sellers of telescopes do not include the mount or tripod with the price labeled. They sometimes list the price of the tube assembly, nothing else. Make sure if and when you find something you like, to ask the salesperson if the mount is included in the price and other accessories. I have been to Telescope stores that have the scope completely set up and later find out that everything with the scope is a separate item. So beware. There are a few things you should have upon getting a telescope. Get at least a 26mm Plossel eyepiece and perhaps a 17mm also. Most scopes come with a cheap 25mm and 9mm eyepiece that are below standard quality. My advice to you is buy your own. Good quality eyepieces can cost on the average of $50. Also get a lunar filter. This is essential in my opinion, because the moon is very bright. Especially in a scope. A non-filtered moon can really destroy your night vision in one eye pretty good. I know. Next, I recommend a shorty Barlow lens. This doubles the magnification of any eyepiece. So with a 26mm, you will have a 13mm with Barlow. 17mm you will have a 8.5mm. So with a Barlow and 2 eyepieces, you essentially have four, 26,17,13,8.8mm. Why buy more. One exception is a 32mm or 40mm. These are good for very wide field view. Next are filters. There are many types of filters that you will need to see certain objects or to bring them out better in the view. One is the broadband filter. This filter blocks certain light bands that help see fainter objects in lighter light-polluted areas. Get this one first, so to understand how they work. Average price is about $45-65. The next one is narrowband. They block more light bands and help enhance emission type nebulas. I didn't realize what I was missing until I got this filter. This one is more expensive. $70-120. There are also many color filters too. They are basically designed for planetary enhancing. Example is a light blue filter enhances the bands and red spot on Jupiter. A red one will show the polar ice caps really nice on Mars. They are pretty cheap. A set of 4 filters from Orion is about $45. Those are a must have. Also if you have a plain old finder scope, like 5 x 25 or something, consider buying a Telrad finder. These are the greatest innovations for telescopes I've seen. They use a reflected LCD light with a target. Once aligned to a bright star or planet, all you have to do is point the Telrad target on the area you want. Very accurate. I love 'em. And buy Star charts. Study them outside. Also purchase a red-lighted flashlight. This is so you can see in the dark without killing your night vision. Very handy. |